Day 22 - Lake Hawea to Stody's Hut, 21.4km, 7 hours 50 minutes

Lake Hawea, with Lake Wanaka and Mt Aspiring in the distant background

With another 1300 meters climbing to be done today, all in one long stint, and a good 90 minutes of walking around the lake before I could even start it, it was another early morning start.



Strong winds were whipping across the lake, giving pause for thought about what it might be like higher up, and whether it was wise to be going up a narrow ridge. Between this and a complaining groin muscle, today was the first day on trail where I really didn't feel like walking. Nevertheless I proceeded, rather nervously, reasoning that I could always turn around if I didn't like how matters were proceeding.


Reaching the start of the climb, a DOC sign promised 4-6 hours to cover the next 4km and climb 1100 of those meters to the first hut, then numerous more signs promised dire consequences for any inexperienced trampers on the route. Ok, pretty steep and exposed then.

 It was, as evidenced by the neighbouring ridgeline which matched the trajectory I was on.





Happily my climbing legs had come back to me, and I powered up the first 500 vertical meters of switchbacks in an hour.

This took me onto a narrow, exposed ridge. Bluffy and blustery is a bad combination. I proceeded staying low, to keep my center of gravity close to the ground and limit my exposure to the buffets of wind.



Continuing like this I reached the hut, Pakituhi after only 2.5 hours, feeling a lot better about things and enjoying the views that were opening out towards the Main Divide, Lakes Hawea and Wanaka and Mt Aspiring in the distance.


After lunch at the hut, I continued up the ridge for another 200 vertical meters to meet the high point for the day. Conditions became windier as I went, resulting in a full on freight train of noise at the top.  Furthermore the weather had closed over the mountains restricting my view somewhat. What I had though was still superlative!
I was surprised at the top to have a full on alpine view down one side of the mountain, and almost a pastoral scene down the other, with merino sheep right at the top of the mountain.



I now went onto the tops, walking parallel to the Main Divide, and the wind went up a final notch, resulting in by far the windiest conditions I've ever walked in.


I was walking like a drunk man, getting blown sideways by anything up to a meter, despite the stabilising influence of my walking poles. I felt safe enough on the tops with no vertical exposure, but it was certainly not the time to be on a ridge, like the one I had just come off. I explained this to 4 SOBOs who passed, but we literally had to shout at each other from within a few feet to be heard.

It wasn't a particularly cold day, in fact it would have been very pleasent without the wind, but severe wind-chill saw me buttoning well up to stay warm.

After about 10 kilometers of this the trail eventually dropped down off the ridge to Stody's, my hut for the night. No need to take boots off outside for this hut!

I enjoyed a very congenial afternoon and evening with 3 SOBOs who did not know each other prior to starting, but have walked literally the whole country together.
In the end an enjoyable day's walk, the reluctance of the morning forgotten.