Wednesday 11 April 2018

Day 59 - Rocks Hut to Pelorous Bridge, 29km, 7 hours 20 minutes


I didn't start the day too well. Within a hundred meters I'd down an involuntary (of course!) somersault down a small bluff, landing on one of my walking sticks and bending it slightly. No other damage done, and the stick was re-straightened fairly easily. Some years ago I fell over a 3 meter bluff finding my way down into the Nina off the Lewis Tops via the Technical-Lucretia Saddle (not a route I'd recommend; it was very bluffy and dangerous). On that occasion I was extremely fortunate not to break my arm - my walking stick resembled a boomerang afterwards.

The first 90 minutes or so today were spent dropping down to the Pelorous River and Middy Hut. On the way down I disturbed a hind, fawn, and many goats (in total about 20 on track today). My first view of the river did not disappoint - a swingbridge over a fabulous swimming hole.

It wasn't long before the trail recrossed to the true left on another spectacularly located footbridge.

Setting off downstream every couple of hundred meters another world class swimming hole would reveal itself on the river.  Wanting to make progress I resisted most of them, but the particularly attractive and easy to access holes always had me in for a swim.  I think I finished the day with 4 swims in the river.  There was a particularly good spot 400 meters upstream from Captain Creek Hut.  Alas I didn't stop at that particular one, but it was a match for any other hole on this world class swimming river - hundreds of meters long and 6+ meters deep with visibility straight to the bottom.

The track was mostly very easy going, with a few quite difficult bits thrown in. At one point I found myself pushing my pack ahead of me through a fallen tree that blocked the path. Generally though I made progress without requiring any concious thought over route or foot placement. Walking, as it were subconsciously, for much of the day I really noticed when I came to a more difficult section to negotiate. I could feel my subconscious cut out and throw control over to my conscious mind to make a decision on route or footing. It was most curious. Usually it would result in no noticeable change to my gait, but for the more difficult sections there would sometimes be a slight check in the step to arrange footing, and for the hardest sections a dead stop while options were contemplated. I have noticed a couple of times when two equally uncertain routes presented themselves of having a state of mental lock, unable to choose between either. When this happens I'll stand there like a statue for 5 or 6 seconds until taking a mental flip of the coin to decide which way to go.
 
Towards the end of the Pelorous Track the route went up away from the river. I was disappointed to lose my beautiful river views, but pleased to reach the road end. From here I just had 14km of road walking ahead of me. From having walked the road as one of my last Te Araroa warm-ups late last year I knew it would take a little under 3 hours.  Given it was already after lunch time it was touch and go if I was to get to the cafe in time!  After a week on trail I can't emphasize enough how important it was to me to get to the cafe before closing - important enough that I eschewed at least a couple of easily accessible swimming holes!  I Pulled into Pelorous Cafe at 3:30pm, half an hour before closing.  Plenty of time to liberally order and chow down on just about one of everything!

This evening I've been put up on the floor of an old, disused TV room. I'm pleased to avoid having to use the tent tonight because the rain has started pouring harder than at any other point on track so far. Never mind - I'm having a zero day here tomorrow to rest, recuperate, shower, swim (hopefully, the Pelorous is known for prodigiously flooding rather easily) and eat!

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