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| On top of Bald Hill, harvesting water! |
I'm getting into the groove of walking early. Up at 6, quick breakfast, forced back inside by passing shower, then on the trail by 7.
Water was going to be an issue today. There was none to be had on the 29km to be covered. Not willing to go back down to the stream from last night, and not trusting the water from the tank at the hut (it looked like brewed tea), so I did a couple of boil ups from the tank water, having a cup of tea and another of coffee before leaving, to get my fluid levels up as high as possible. Apart from that I was just going to have to get by on the 2 liters I had squirreled aside from last night.
The walking day started with a 400 meter climb straight out of the hut. What a difference a night makes! It was a similar gradient, but much easier going than the end of the day yesterday. I usually power my way up hills but was more measured here, trying to keep sweating, and hence water loss, to a minimum, alas with limited success. My shirt was still a mess of sweat when I got to the tops 40 minutes after starting.
On the tops the topomap promised easier going. I stopped to setup the solar panel and was immediately rewarded with the satisfying glow of the charging light. However even while I was setting it up a mist rolled in. It was the kind of day that could go either way, weather wise.
Within minutes the day decided which way it wanted to go, a light shower starting. No solar panel charging on the go for me today. The rain worsened, at one point becoming somewhat haily, necessitating donning the jacket for the first time.
We had been assured of magnificent views on this day, down to Stewart Island and Bluff hill, and west to the Fiordland mountains; instead we could just about make out the trig point 20 meters away.
I say we because Neil, the Tasmanian from yesterday, had caught up and we paired up to tackle the inclement conditions together.
The rain wasn't all bad, it was easier to stay cool, and so the water situation was eased somewhat. Also, I enjoyed playing catch the falling drop from my hood visor with my tongue.
There was a bit of up and down today, 3 hills with probably about 900 meters ascent in total. Off the tops it was real goblin forest, with moss like I've never seen before, hanging off the trees, and on the ground up to a meter thick.
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To further ease the water situation I took to sucking spagnum moss, which is essentially a very effective sponge. As long as you didn't suck too hard you could get a decent mouthful of water from a handful of spagnum. Suck too hard and you'd get a mouthful of dirt.
Coming down to an abandoned quarry, we started up a service road to the summit of our final hill for the day, after 5 hours walking. Here we struck gold, a stagnant hole of semi-potable water. It was good enough for me. I immediately drained a good liter of it before refilling bottles.
Shortly afterwards we reached the top of Bald Hill, where there is a biggish communications station. It had a convenient nook to get out of the wind, allowing a boil up for lunch.
The afternoon was fairly non eventful. A couple of hours through more goblin forest, slowly losing height, then another couple of hours down a four wheel drive track.
And so I say goodbye to the deep, deep South; we're now in central Southland. Our accommodation tonight is fabulous, a private hut setup on a farm, run by a really friendly family. I bought a couple of bottles of beer, a can of Coke and some farm fresh eggs for breakfast tomorrow. The whole thing is run by an honesty box system - the TA walkers I've met so far seem a really decent bunch, so I trust that this system works out for them. It's a pleasant change to have that level of trust. If you're doing TA stay at Merrivale huts!
One other item if note, Merrivale farm had the most pet-like sheep I've ever seen. Honestly, it was more like a dog. When you rubbed her tummy she'd start wagging her non existent tail, and if you stopped she'd start pawing your arm with a hoof to continue!
Anyway, when I arrived at the hut there was a very chatty Swiss couple already in residence. They are SOBO South Island only, and blew my mind when they told me they had not had to use their jackets once on their whole trip South. Amazing! They also got amusingly lost at one point, ending up at Lake Benmore on the section between Lake Ohau and Twizel. This was a 50km detour, that would have taken at least 2 days walking!
Tomorrow we head on through Southland farmland to a similarly setup private camp tomorrow. This one holds the promise of a huge meal for $15 if other walkers are to be believed.
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