Day 48 - Boyle Flats Hut to Anne Hut, 16.6km, 4 hours

I woke from a really good sleep to a beautiful morning and set off into the upper Boyle Valley.
It wasn't long before I passed Rokeby Hut. Last time I'd been here was with my brothers Paul and Stephen. We'd just had a memorable night, for all the wrong reasons. We'd dropped over Anne Saddle late in the evening and taken the first tent site available once we got to the river - indeed the only tent site for some distance. It snowed over night, a small stream we were camped beside rose, and we ended up with 3 inches of slush in the bottom of the tent, seated back to back to back, waiting for the first glimpse of dawn. No sleep, with probably my longest ever night. As soon as dawn started touching the sky we packed up and stumbled down to Rokeby Hut, near hypothermic. We lit a huge fire and warned up for an hour or two - I can still recall the steam in the tiny hut as we dried ourselves, and everything else, out.


Today's weather couldn't have been more different. My legs couldn't have felt better, and in 30 minutes I was up Anne Saddle and down the other side.


The top of the Anne Valley is a beautiful place. The St James Walkway, which it is part of, is very worthwhile, especially since it has reverted to public land and been largely de-stocked. It has a sub-alpine feel yet has no significant climbing, the 200 meters over the Anne Saddle the only exception.


Pushing on down valley I got a bit of a shock when I saw what at first glance I first took for 3 opossums immediately beside the track. In actual fact they were 3 piglets - I have no idea where the mother was and there was nothing I could do for them in any case.


I had been intending to push on to Waiau Hut today - I had plenty of time to do so. However this would have me exiting to St Arnaud on Easter Sunday. I'm hopeful of finding some accommodation there thereby avoiding the tent, so it would be better to come out on Monday. Therefore I decided on another really easy day by stopping at Anne Hut. Since I had been here last the old Anne Hut had burned down, with a beautiful hut built another kilometer down the valley as a replacement. It sits really well into the landscape.

A hard afternoon of sunbathing on the porch in my knickers ensued.

Day 47 - Boyle Village to Boyle Flats Hut, 12.6km, 3 hours 30 minutes

Back on trail for the last stint - kind of. I'm planning a couple of 2 day breaks, but moving away from home now I want to finish off the walk fairly quickly.

Not being confident of getting some of the food I'll need in St Arnaud, I have the biggest pack of the trail so far, with the best part of 3 weeks snack food on board plus other extras. My pack is straining at the seams, but surprisingly felt fine on my shoulders.

Mum and dad dropped me off at Boyle 'Village' then accompanied me for the first hour, during which we followed the Boyle River along its bank. A beautiful section of track to walk before we all sat down for lunch.

After lunch I took my leave of mum and dad and within minutes came out onto wide river bed.  At tjos point I abandoned the track knowing that it meanders all over the place, whereas there is a beeline route to Magdalen Hut across the flats. Magdalen has been rebuilt recently, retaining none of the character of the previous hut, but I guess at least it'll keep the mice out. I wasn't stopping in any case; I'd only had lunch an hour beforehand.


Carrying on up the Boyle the valley narrows again with some more beautiful river walking.


Only a couple of kilometres away was Boyle Flats Hut.  Again I wasn't intending to stop, preferring to soldier on to Rokeby further up valley. However with a strong wind springing up and rain starting I made a last minute decision to take advantage of Boyle Flat's fire and stop for a really short day. Cest la vie, I'm in no rush. I have the hut all to myself, a first on trail, with the rain absolutely belting down outside, so all in all a good decision.

Hiatus 7 - Home for 4 days

So many breaks off trail!  I have enjoyed the breaks home, however this is the last.  I'm off towards the Nelson Lakes and out of range of home after this.  3 solid weeks walking, over the hardest terrain on the trail will see me finished and home again.
Tomorrow morning I set out from the Lewis Pass, bound for Waiau Pass, so a fair bit of climbing ahead of me.  I've chosen to really load up too, I've got the better part of 10 days food on board, as I don't think I'll be able to get all the supplies I'm after in St Arnaud. Oh well.  A good chance to burn off some of the calories I've been loading up on at home!

Day 46 - Hope Kiwi Hut to Boyle Village, Lewis Pass, 26.7km, 6 hours 15 minutes

The beautiful bird life from yesterday continued on the final walk out to the Lewis Pass.  I'll definitely be coming in here a lot more often to enjoy it.

There were some beautiful bridged gorges to cross on the way out.

Once we got to the road there was a decision to make. There is a new piece of track linking Windy Point to the Boyle Village and the St James Walkway, however it involves a couple of fords. With a lot of rain over night we decided to exit to the road instead and 10km of walking with vehicles.

I'm heading home for a few days before I move out of range towards the Nelson Lakes, whereas Neil is going to soldier on, so the bestie break up has finally happened! Sayonara Neil!

Day 45 - Hurunui #3 Hut to Hope Kiwi Hut, 26.7km, 6 hours 20 minutes

A beautiful morning dawned and we set off early(ish) down the Hurunui towards Lake Sumner, 10 or so kilometres away.

As we walked a southerly wind sprang up over our shoulders, promising not such great weather to come. Nevertheless after only an hour of walking we came to the Hurunui Hot Springs, which I had been looking forward to for some time. I was worried about walking straight past, as it had been some years since I've been this far up the valley. I needn't have worried; the thermal waterfall that drops from it to the riverbed is a dead give away. As it happens there is currently an excellent swimming hole in the river directly beneath the thermal spring, so the next 40 minutes were spent oscillating between the hot pool, at about 38 degrees, and the river, at about 11 degrees.
It was marvellous!

Reluctantly carrying on we climbed away from the river towards the Hurunui Hut, situated close to the lake. A good place for another early lunch.


As it happens also a good place for another curio, a superfluous style.

Lake Sumner marked the 900km point on the trail. Having shortly before been stung by a bumblebee I was keen to get into the lake for a cold swim. The thumbs up photo slipped my mind! For 2km anyway.

The climb from the lake to Kiwi Saddle was more of a drag than I'd anticipated. I'd only climbed the saddle from the other direction before - you don't get the same sense for what a climb might be like when you descend it. While there was some nice scenery on route, I arrived at the top pretty tired.

A very adventurous Robin entertained us as we recovered over our snack bags at the saddle. The bird life in Lake Sumner Forest Park is most impressive. While traversing the lake there were anything up to half a dozen bellbirds singing more or less constantly. It may have something to do with adjoining the Hurunui Mainland Island in the upper Hurunui Valley that we had just exited, although I must say I didn't notice an exceptional amount of bird life further up the valley. In any case, it made for a memorable few hours walk.

From the saddle there is an easy drop to flats then across to the hut, only 4km away.

Day 44 - Locke Stream Hut to Hurunui # 3 Hut, 14.5km, 5 hours

"Mice, mice in the night" might not have the same fear factor as "Drums, drums in the deep" but did for the poor SOBO we were sharing the hut with last night. A full on scream followed by a series of high pitched whimpers woke me. Going to investigate I found that a mouse had got in her pack.  Unpacking for her, I shooed the mouse (as in waved it away, not squashed it with a boot - while this is also a viable option I had good reason to suspect this walker was a vegan and might not appreciate the gesture), and placed her pack safely up on a table. Given it's now autumn and getting cooler the recent influx of mice into the huts is not unexpected. With my preference for tramping in colder months I fairly commonly have them running over my sleeping bag in the night. I've got some good mouse stories...

The day started with crossing a very new, and very long swing bridge. It seemed a little extraneous to me, the river was easily fordable and if it's not then you probably shouldn't be going over Harper's Pass anyway. In any case, being a new(ish) bridge I appreciated not having to worry about snagging my tent on the bedraggled wire that tends to go with all other swingbridges.

There was also the interesting spectacle of a subterranean stream emerging from a scree slope near the valley floor, leaving me to speculate as to whether this had been a recent landslide with the scree still loose enough to allow the stream to run inside it.
Harper's Pass has phenomenal views into the upper Hurunui River, and especially down the long (and largely straight) Taramakau. With the weather unimproved from the day before we were not going to enjoy any of those larger views however...

...but still got to enjoy the power and beauty of the upper Taramakau as it dwindled to a stream near the pass.

I was feeling pretty cold so didn't hang around long on the pass itself, just stopping for the obligatory photo.

This led me onto a piece of track I'd really been looking forward to. I remember the couple of kilometres between the Pass and Harper's Pass Biv as exceedingly beautiful. In this case my memory wasn't shielded behind rose tinted glasses. It is just as beautiful as I remembered it; I enjoyed every second of the descent.

All too soon we were at the tiny 2 man bivvy for an early lunch. Neil and I squeezed ourselves in away from the drizzly conditions to dry off and warm and feed up.

In a piece of absurd timing the first significant group of SOBOs we had seen in weeks, 5 of them, turned up while we were lunching. It's somewhat of an understatement to say the bivvy was overfull. We left them to it and continued down valley.


Below the bivvy was the worst piece of track I've yet seen on trail. A 6 or 7 meter high bank, perhaps 10 metres across and pitched at more than 45° with no discernible safe route across. I wasn't too subtle in my approach, attempting a controlled slide, which quickly became an uncontrolled slide. I was fortunate to get to the bottom with nothing ripped or injured.
Neil, being a rock climber, had a bit more finesse and was able to pick a way across the top then down climb an easier section.


Unwilling to trust the track further we took to the Hurunui River bed for some easy travel, stopping at Cameron's Hut for afternoon tea and some amusement with a particularly brave mouse...


Before calling the day off at our now customary mid afternoon time when we reached Hurunui # 3 Hut, roughly midway between the Pass and Lake Sumner.

Day 43 - Pfeifer Creek to Locke Stream hut, 15km, 4 hours

Kiwi Hut

A quick, easy day today. Fortunately the sandflies weren't as bad this morning as they were yesterday, not that I risked venturing out of my tent to find out until it was time to pack up!

The day entirely consisted of walking up the Taramakau Valley, with Harper's Pass hidden for most of the day by the drizzly conditions.

Close to the very attractive Kiwi Hut, we found some private huts, well secured, Mr Bean style.


After morning tea at Kiwi Hut, we ventured into the bush to avoid having to retrace our footsteps by 500 meters.


It was always going to end in a bush bash of course. 15 minutes later we'd covered the 200 meters back to the river, and promptly threw ourselves into the river to remove all the bush detritus, feeling exhausted but virtuous in an early explorer kind of way.


Some fairly tedious valley walking saw us at Locke Stream Hut, a good kickoff point for Harper's Pass tomorrow. Queue a fair bit of drying the tents and clothes off, some scouring around for wet wood and a fairly reluctantly burning fire. Still pleasant to sit in front of though!

I remember loving staying in this hut last time I was here with Karen's uncle Bob and cousin Ian. It's lost none of it's charms. Beautifully positioned on a knoll above a confluence of 2 cascading mountain rivers, it is a labour-of-love, constructed in the old style with hand adzed floors and supporting timbers. It certainly makes for one of the more memorable huts in New Zealand.